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Great Peasant Dishes of the World
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A whole duck is marinated in a mixture of rice wine, ginger, Sichuan peppercorns and tangerine peel, then smoked over coals sprinkled with camphor wood shavings and tea leaves.
Chicken broth spiced with vinegar and pepper and stocked with shreds of pork, bean curd, tiger lily buds, and cloud ears (a dried tree fungus).
The meat is simmered, sliced, then stir-fried with vegetables and a spicy bean-based condiment.
Although fifty years ago few people outside of China were familiar with Sichuan's hot and spicy cuisine, today it has devoted fans around the world.
The region's culinary core is an isolated triangular fertile plain enclosed by three massive mountain ranges. This topography helps produce a hot and humid climate that is conducive to the area's most characteristic seasoning, tongue scorching chilies.
They were not introduced into the region until a few hundred years ago, when chilies were brought over from their New World habitat.
The people prefer the dishes on the table to have degrees of hotness varying from mild to fiery.
The use of chilies is drastically reduced or eliminated in the dishes served at banquets.
Many non-Chinese Sichuan restaurant-goers (especially in America) relish the monotonous everything-as-hot-as-possible approach.
Making one dish hotter than another is not a measure of a chef's talent. All it takes is the addition of extra chili, a feat that could be performed by a trained monkey.
Epicures judge a Sichuan chef by the subtly complex overtones of his sauces and whether they complement the other ingredients in his dishes.

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