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Our world has many other underground rivers, but the one in Palawan is the best from the traveler's point of view. You journey up this subterranean river in a small boat.
The trip is adventurous. You view stalactites, stalagmites and other eerie limestone formations as your boatman-guide paddles his craft up the dark, meandering Underground River. A flashlight and lantern light the way.
At 8 kilometers (5 miles), it is the world's longest navigable underground river. Your boat travels 1.3 miles of it and the trip takes 45 minutes.
You can book a private or group tour - or make your own arrangements. If you do the latter, be sure you buy your entrance and tour boat tickets in advance at the park office in the nearby town of Sabang.
The Underground River empties directly into the South China Sea, so the amount headroom between your mandatory helmet and the low-hanging formations at the cave's entrance will be minimal at high tide.
Bats, swiftlets, water snakes and other creatures live in the cave.
Be wary of the quick wild monkeys in the outdoor boarding area. They love to steal loosely guarded food and personal belongings.
It's January to March, the heart of the dry season.
It is July to September, the middle of the wet season. Waves sometimes become too high for landing the passenger crafts from Sabang (see "Getting There" section below). There is a land alternative, the 2-kilometer (1.5-mile) Monkey Trail, but it can be muddy and slippery when it rains.
During the peak tourism season (especially from mid-December through January), you might have to wait a long time at the boarding area in the middle of the day for available space on an Underground River tour boat.
I recommend you get an early start by driving directly from the Puerto Princesa airport to Sabang and stay overnight in one of its casual resorts or bungalows. Then, take the first boat in the morning from Sabang to the Underground River.
The most popular gateway city to the Underground River is Puerto Princesa, the capital of Palawan. It's about one hour by air from Manila.
From Puerto Princesa, it's a 2.5 hour drive to Sabang, the next staging location. The road is bumpy, jerky and jarring in places.
From Sabang, you take a 20-minute boat ride along the picturesque coastline to a beach landing. It’s a 5-minute walk on a marked path to the cave's entrance area (see photo above). There, you board an Underground River tour boat.


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